Increasing numbers of men are coming back to the use of straight razors for their daily shave but some, surely, are unsure exactly what to go for. This article should help them create that crucial first purchase. So what to be aware of on your initial straight razor? Let us look first at exactly what exactly makes a straight razor what it is. A straight razor is, essentially, a very simple tool. The scales aren’t even really necessary in terms of working with the blade to shave with. Their only purpose is to protect the blade when the razor isn’t being used, and of course to provide a guard against the border so you don’t inadvertently cut yourself when handling the razor. Most classic razors you will see available have a blade made from high-carbon steel that’s been reinforced and tempered so that a very fine – and – sharp – edge can be achieved. Some older razors are made of cast steel but for the purposes of this article these may be dismissed. Stainless steel, which is a rather new invention, is now utilized in some modern razors and gives a longer-lasting advantage but is more challenging to hone back to sharpness once the time comes. The piece of steel that makes the blade of the razor is forged to shape and specially ground to optimum shape and profile. This was obviously at one time done by hand but latterly by machine. Very few modern straight razors are handmade and those that are made in this manner are very expensive.
When forged and floor, the blade is then finished by honing into a sharp border. Again, this was carried out by hand but is now at least machine-assisted. It’s worth noting that most new razors are not usually’shave prepared’ and generally require some light honing and then stropping prior to use. This is sometimes done by the buyer or the straight razor could be sent out to a professional to be honed these can certainly by found online and prices are normally quite reasonable. Properly looked after, a straight razor should just need honing perhaps twice yearly, even though it will need stropping on a special leather strop before each shave. This effect gives a’new border’ for each shave and is just one of the reasons that directly razors achieve such good results after the shaving technique is learned. Again, there are many resources on the world wide web to assist the newcomer, such as a variety of forums run by razor collectors and enthusiasts who are always happy to offer help and advice. So why do some razors are more expensive than others? Well, a few of this price is in the steel that the best quality Swedish carbon steel and also quite high quality Sheffield carbon steel is more costly than regular carbon steel. Are you looking about best cut throat razor? Go to the earlier talked about site.
Also the level of work in making the blade affects the price – the more grinding and forming which is done, the higher the cost. It’s exactly the same with razors. Deeply-engraved blades, gold-washed blades, gold-plated tangs, fancy patterning and the like all add to the cost, as do scales manufactured from progressively more expensive materials. The identical blade fitted with regular plastic mounts may be a third of the price – or less – than one clad in real mother-of-pearl – but it is going to provide you the exact same close shave because its pricey variant! With vintage razors there is also the complication of collectable desirability. It is a truism to say that anything is only worth what someone is prepared to pay for it and that is nowhere more true than with collectors. A razor made by a sought-after manufacturer, or you to complete a collection, may fetch several times in excess of its original price, even allowing for inflation. In conclusion, it pays to get the first-time purchaser to pick their first razor with some care. If a good, workmanlike piece with very little wear and made in Sheffield or even Solingen comes up, odds are it will probably be ideal for your initial foray into straight razors and as soon as you get used to a single, chances are you won’t use anything else.